When CJ Jackson invited a group of nine-year-olds to Billingsgate Market to learn about fish, she expected curiosity. What she didn’t expect was blank stares. “I asked them what fish they eat, and they could only name cod, haddock, salmon, canned tuna – and, with a bit of prompting, prawns,” she recalled. “Ten years ago, children were far more knowledgeable. Now, many have never even seen a whole fish.”
That moment became the spark for her new book, “Great British Seafood Revival”, a richly illustrated celebration of British seafood that blends recipes, history and personal reflection. Working with photographer Steve Lee, Jackson set out to reconnect the public with local, lesser-known species – and to tell the stories behind them.
“It’s really aimed at people who don’t buy fish very often,” she explained. “I want them to look at seafood as something to explore, to discover what’s landed in the UK and how good it can be.”
Bridging the disconnect
Jackson, who has spent decades teaching at Billingsgate Seafood School and advising industry groups, told WF the book grew from concern that younger generations are losing touch with fresh fish entirely. “Children see everything in packs now. They think seafood comes from the supermarket. That worries me – because in 10 or 20 years, they’ll be the ones feeding their families.”
The book highlights species such as megrim, witch sole, thornback ray and spurdog – fish that British boats land in abundance but consumers rarely buy. “Every fisherman I’ve spoken to says the same thing: they’d love to see more of the UK public buying UK fish,” she said. “We export around 80% of our catch. The quality is fantastic, but we’ve lost that sense of ownership.”
She also insists the decline in fish variety on British plates is a cultural loss. “We stopped eating things like herring and spurdog, and so we lost the taste for them,” she said.
For Jackson, the project was a labour of love – and largely self-funded. She and Lee travelled from Cornwall to Scotland, visiting markets, ports and processors. “It was hugely self-indulgent,” she laughed. “But I came back brimming with excitement about the industry. There are so many good things happening – innovation, sustainability, community – and I wanted my book to reflect that.”
A personal journey
While the book champions British seafood, it also reveals Jackson’s own story – from childhood memories of buying pickled cockles to fishing trips on the River Findhorn. “The publishers wanted my own voice in it,” she says. “It’s the first time I’ve written in a personal way, and that felt important. My enthusiasm comes from lived experience.”
She hopes readers – whether chefs, home cooks or seafood lovers – will be inspired. “I want them to open the book and think: ‘Wow, what a fantastic industry we have in the UK. How can I support it?’”
Jackson acknowledges that there are many parts of the UK that doesn’t have direct access to fishing boats or indeed fishmongers, and that many supermarkets have done away with their wet fish counters. However, there are a number of very good online fishmongers and specialist stores that supporting local fishing fleets that are well worth considering, she said.
Ultimately, Jackson’s message to those people is simple: eat more of what’s caught on our coasts. “We’ve got a vibrant industry, but we need more joined-up thinking and more public understanding,” she said. “I want people to fall in love with British fish again.”
The book’s last page, she pointed out, offers the simple take-home message for the UK public: “When the boat comes in: buy seasonal, buy sustainable, buy British.”
