Now is a good time to be a UK fishmonger, according to Sue MacKenzie, President of the National Federation of Fishmongers, with the trade going through something of a renaissance as independent businesses capitalise on the closure of wet fish counters in most retail chain stores.
MacKenzie owns The Fish Shop in Camberley, Surrey, one of an estimated 1,000 independent businesses selling fish – from high street shops to market stalls and a growing fleet of delivery vans.
It’s a very different story from just a few decades ago, when many feared for the future of the high street fish shop, as a growing number pulled down their shutters for the final time, with their skilled and experienced owners moving into supermarkets to run in-house wet fish counters. But now just one or two of the big retail chains still offer fish that hasn’t been pre-packaged and prepared.
There are around 100 different species of fish and shellfish available in the country and fishmongers are playing a crucial role introducing customers to newer, lesser-known species and encouraging them to try something different, according to UK public body Seafish.
While in countries such as France and Spain, as well as in many Asian and African cultures, picking up and preparing whole fish is second nature to a savvy shopper, in the UK customers can be more standoffish. This is where a good fishmonger can step in. “Talking about the freshness and quality of what you’re selling is a powerful conversation,” added MacKenzie.
“We’ve become a trusted friend on the high street,” she said, “and we can provide advice on new fish and shellfish to try, tell people about different flavours and textures, explain the health benefits of a diet that contains more seafood, and importantly, how they prepare and cook it.”
A small but growing number of fishmongers are also selling online, although ensuring certain fish and shellfish species are available on a daily basis can be a problem. MacKenzie offers a click-and-collect rather than a postal delivery service. “Otherwise, you lose that one-on-one contact,” she said, “and you can’t always guarantee what is going to be available. I like to sell what is in season, too.”
Far more fishmongers are starting to use social media as a means of keeping in touch with existing customers and also reaching out to prospective customers - talking to customers about promotions, special events and pushing the message that fish and shellfish aren’t just something eaten on a Friday.
“We regularly put out new recipes and cooking advice and invite our customers to tell us how they’ve cooked their fish or shellfish, which can then inspire other people. There’s a real knock-on effect,” MacKenzie said. “People will try something different when they feel confident about how to cook it.”
Meanwhile, Hayden Cutting, who works at the award-winning Bells Fishmongers concession at the Pioneer food store in Carlisle, Cumbria, also wants to demystify fish and shellfish and encourage more people to enjoy it.
Furthermore, being a big advocate of social media, Cutting runs promotions such as selling fish along with a marinade, making it fast and simple to cook.
“It can go straight in the oven,” he said. “It’s the ultimate fast food but with none of the downsides. Then next time they visit I can make other suggestions for them to try.”
Just talking to customers can open so many doors, he said. “When we tell people that a kilo of fish costs a tenner and can make a meal for four people, they’re amazed at the value,” he explains. “Fish is nature’s unadulterated protein shake and multivitamin tablets.”
“This interaction with customers is also a great opportunity to talk about the sustainability and responsible sourcing credentials of British fishing and reassure people that they are making good decisions.”
This is especially true when it comes to transparency, Cutting explained, with wet, fresh fish and shellfish beating pre-packaged every time, when it comes to knowing where something has come from, and the food miles that are involved.
“Buying a British product, which is fished, landed and processed, then sold in the UK, reaps huge benefits, as opposed to importing seafood from around the globe, when it is available on our doorsteps. It’s both greener and better for the economy.”
MacKenzie agreed. “We have a real focus on quality and provenance and even go as far as displaying where the fish was caught, and the name of the vessel that landed it. Customers love it and it becomes a great talking point,” she said.
Like many fishmongers, Cutting is on a mission to show the British public that there is a huge variety of different types of fish and shellfish to be enjoyed, and that they should look beyond the popular big five – cod, haddock, tuna, salmon and prawns - which make up 70% of UK seafood sales.
Popular alternatives include encouraging customers to try trout instead of salmon, or hake as an alternative to cod, as well as explaining how a flatfish like megrim is just as tasty as its more famous cousin, the sole.
In 2023, Cutting was certified as a Master Fishmonger by the Worshipful Company of Fishmongers, an award that recognises both his expertise and his deep understanding of seafood. “Skills are so important,” he said. “But it’s not just about preparing and displaying the fish, you need the knowledge of the wider supply chain to be able to sell the fish too; then the customers will trust you and value your opinion, and that’s absolutely crucial. In the UK, we have the product, but we just need more highly skilled people to promote and sell the amazing produce we have available to us.
“That is why it’s so important to emphasise the importance of skills and training in the industry, along with promoting the wonderful career pathways and opportunities available to both young and old.”
