The Spanish entry, at the 2011 Billingsgate School Sustainable Seafood Award, shocked WF with their 20 per cent loss to birds.
But Miguel Medialdea, of the Veta La Palma “farm” said they were delighted with their partner-birds’ catch. Millions of migrating and 600,000 resident birds were key in re-working and maintaining what had been a vast 11,000ha, dried out, waste marshland, he said.
The Billingsgate vote is always a friendly affair and the taste buds, after big helpings of the Isle of Man’s small “Queen Scallops” gave the “Queenies” number one spot ahead of the Spanish. A few small, Manx-only boats catch 15tpa in a light-trawl, low bycatch, eco operation. Backed by the Manx government, officials admit it is a ‘finite’ resource. Ironically, Iberian firms buy 90 per cent of product.
WF does not vote but looks for the big picture and Veta la Palma clearly offers the Nature-based model (dating back centuries) with a modern twist and replicable worldwide.
Miguel, co-presenting with UK distributor Laky Zervudachi of Direct Seafoods, told WF that they bought the derelict marshland in 1982, part of southern Spain’s Doñana National Park on the Guadalqavir estuary.
Without subsidies, they have reversed the drainage system to re-flood 3,500ha of the marshes and create a fish polyculture (photo) and mobilised 8,000ha for agri-cropping, horse and cattle ranching. Horse-drawn barges ferry lucrative birdwatchers. The fish and birds thrive on natural algae and marine organisms refreshed by the rich Guadalqavir pumped water. There is a hi-tech hatchery and nursery, no bycatch, no fishmeal pellets - just algae-based winter feed boosts.
Sustainable for WF means expandable, large quantities. Market demand pays good prices for this natural, unforced food. The slowly nurtured Stone Bass (argyrosomus regius spawns in the estuary) tasted exquisite. Their innovative, chorizo-style fish sausage is a hit.
